We had hoped to fly into Yulara at 1:30, pick up our rental car, quickly check in to the hotel, then get to Uluru (Ayers Rock) for the afternoon and evening, then spend one day going to and hiking in the Olgas and possibly one day driving to Kings Canyon and back, then the morning of the next day exploring around Uluru before flying out.
Typical mistake: planning to cram too much in too short a time.
The plane was on time, but something was amiss with the baggage handling system. Two plane-loads of passengers waited an unusual amount of time until the conveyor finally started up. We boarded the free shuttle to the Yulara village center where we picked up our rental car, then drove to the Outback Pioneer Hotel.
The respiratory thing we caught in the flying petri dish on our way to Australia had a good grip on us by the time we got the the Red Center. So we quickly "relaxed" our plans. We spent the afternoon leisurely walking around Yulara and browsing in its shops.
AccommodationWe were curious what our hotel, the Outback Pioneer Hotel, would be like since it's the cheapest of the hotels in Yulara (everything in Yulara is expensive) and shares a compound with the Outback Pioneer Lodge, a hostel-like place with dorms and private rooms.
It was a very pleasant surprise. It was composed of clusters of concrete block units spread amidst nicely landscaped gardens. Although a bit spartan, it was very clean and well tended ... perfect for our needs.
That evening we ate in its restaurant, the Bough House - it was semi prix fixe - a bit pricy for our taste but the main course meat was great and the accompanying buffet was as good or better than most. We found the breakfast buffets (included with our room) were great and included the ability to request things from the kitchen.
The best part of eating there was our frequent waitress with whom we had many short conversations; she was a young girl from Japan. In Australia, Canada, and many countries young people from throughout the world are able to work on short term permits. That's a great experience for them, and tends to create a bond with, and appreciation of, the host country which can have lasting impact on relations between countries. Sadly, that doesn't happen much in the US.
It was only a 15 minute walk across an "unlandscaped bit of the outback" to the village center. We walked it a lot during our stay.
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Map from Ayers Rock Resort website
Exploring Uluru (Ayers Rock)
We had read much about Uluru in our trip preparation, some of the best sources being the national park's visitor guide and The Ayers Rock Resort website.
We needed our rest so got up late, hence unfortunately missed the sunrise. Instead of hurrying off we attended the mid morning Mani-Mani cultural performance in the Arkani theater behind the Desert Gardens hotel. Mani-Mani Performance It was well-worthwhile attending (it's free, with a donation gently requested). Then off to the whole point here: Uluru.
Immediately outside of town we noticed a small hill with a few people on it, so stopped and walked through the red earth to it for our first good view of the rock. (All the soil around the Red Center is red ... fortunately we had brought pairs of old shoes that we didn't mind getting gritty and ochre red). I don't really know what I was expecting the outback to be like, but was surprised to find the red center to have lots of dry country plants, much like the high desert of the western US.
We drove to the Mala Carpark and began walking the 6.6 mile base walk that circumnavigates the rock. We were lucky - it was sunny but only in the mid 70's ... going in early spring had its benefits. And I'm not sure if its because of the wind, or the season, or the fact that we came prepared with our insect nets, but the notorious flies were nowhere to be found; the nets remained in the bottom of our packs.
The Mala Carpark is where the climbing route starts (In the photo below you can barely see the line of metal stanchions and their chain that provides a safety handhold to the top.) The day before we got there it had rained, so the rock was slippery and climbing was prohibited that day. But throughout the area there are many pleas not to climb it ... it's sacred to the Anangu, the aboriginal owners; they plea to visitors to respect their culture. When we returned from our trip we heard that the Anangu and the Australian government have finally decided to prohibit climbing on the rock beginning October 26, 2019. Click here for press release explaining the decision I wonder if at that time the stanchions and chain will be removed; it seems appropriate to do so.
Tjukurpa
"Tjukurpa is the foundation of Anangu culture.
It provides a spiritual basis of Anangu culture, rules for behaviour and knowledge of the environment. It is the law for caring for one another and for the land that supports people’s existence. Tjukurpa refers to the time of creation as well as the present time. Tjukurpa defines the relationship between people, plants, animals and physical features of the land. Knowledge of how these relationships came to be, what they mean and how they must be maintained, is explained in the Tjukurpa."
"Anangu culture, which is codified in Tjukurpa, is based on exclusivity of knowledge. This knowledge
is only available to those who are initiated. Because some of the knowledge is coded within Uluru—its geological features illustrate stories from Tjukurpa—even looking at certain parts of the rock is taboo for those who are not initiated. For this reason, the Anangu do not want certain parts of Uluru to be photographed or footprints left on the rock, in contradiction with the maxim of ethical tourism." From an essay by Peter Prevos - see it here
In keeping with Tjukurpa, along the trail were periodic areas where there were requests for no photography, and areas to be approached only for initiated males, others for initiated females.
Periodically groups of signs feature the Anangu legends about many of the features of the rock, giving great insights to their culture. Here's part of a series about greed. (I wonder whether we could get Trump to walk the path and read the signs.)
You can click on any image in this blog to enlarge it.
Because of the rain from the previous day, water was still trickling down the indentations and valleys in the rock. When we came to Mutitjulu Waterhole one of the reasons became apparent why Urulu would have been so important, so sacred, to the Anangu: it offers shade and more importantly, collects water, permitting plants, animals, and people to survive in the midst of the hostile dry Red Center.
The water hole's impact is greater to those circumnavigating Uluru by foot, but for those who must drive, its only a short walk from the Kuniya carpark.
As one continues around the dry rock you periodically come to places where water occasionally seeps down the rock allowing plants and trees to grow, and in places there are caves offering shelter.
Warning: the only place there are toilets at the rock are at the Mala Carpark. Towards the end of our circumnavigation we were hurrying to get to them to avoid needing to commit sacrilege.
Driving back to Yulara, when we passed the sunset viewing area we came upon a half mile of people and their vehicles gathering .. a half mile of people standing in a vague line with cameras ready to view the sunset. Although it seemed anticlimactic and impersonal to us having just spent hours being up close and personal with Uluru, we stopped, and with the horde, watched the the slow progression of various hues of red and ochre as they changed with the intensity of light.
By the time we got back to our hotel the flying petri dish's gift had really gotten to me ... off to bed without dinner, feeling miserable. Alongside the main hotel and restaurant structure is an informal outdoor area with tables and TV, a bar, BBQ place, and walkup window for burgers, fries, and such. Ginny went there trying to find some soup. None to be had. She brought some other things back so we sat in our room, nibbling a bit on cold greasy hamburgers, drinking tons of water, both of us blowing our noses and coughing.
This is what I felt like.
I don't know what this is ... it's one of the occasional odd fragments that shows up on my iPhone (maybe a photo from when I slip it into my pocket?)
Strangely, but very appropriately, it showed up in my sequences of Uluru photos. I guess my iPhone knows me better than I'd like.
Morning, as usual, brought a new day ... we were still not feeling well, but excited to get out and about. After another very good breakfast we left for the Olga's, hoping to hike all day, but resigned to just car tour if we had to. In the end, when we got to the Olga's, all we had energy to do was stop and get out at the Valley of the Winds and the Walpa Gorge carparks.
On the way back we stopped for a mid afternoon lunch at the underwhelming Uluru Cultural Center before returning to pack for tomorrow's flight to Cairns and the subsequent drive to Port Douglas.
Fortunately, by the morning I was feeling much better and it gradually dissipated over the next days. Ginny hadn't felt as bad as I had, but for her the respiratory thing kept lingering for the next 30 days.
A Random Impression
For some people a quick look at Ayers Rock is enough; two nights, one day, would suffice. But there is so much more, both to see, to experience, and to learn. I've been to deserts and their rock formations before, but this was strangely different. Maybe it actually has unusual power.
Were I to go back to the Red Center I'd stay much longer ... 2 weeks or so. I'd go to Alice Springs and explore the MacDonnell National Park and along the Mereenie Loop Road (four wheel drive only) to Kings Canyon, thence to Uluru - Kata Tjuta National Park. And most importantly, do it with someone indigenous to the area, knowledgable about its history, its arts, and its culture.
from the Ayers Rock Resort website
A Random Musing - Night Sky
Coming from the US Pacific Northwest I'm familiar with camping in the alpine areas of the mountains or unpopulated high desert the and watching the milky way, the canopy of stars, and the random shooting star. One of my strongest memories was camping on a late summer surviving alpine snow field and watching the perseid meteor shower. It was moonless. The stars were so bright. The snow seemed to vaguely glow in response to the heavens.
We didn't get to the Field of Lights display while we were at Uluru ( Link to the Field of Lights ), though we did get chances to marvel at the clear night sky.
At the time we needed our rest as it wasn't high enough on our priorities to pay to get to the display.
In the last few days I've read articles how the world is becoming inundated by light: Losing Darkness and Light pollution covering nearly 80% of the globe .
Art can illuminate the human spirit and help it soar.
And I realize the Field of Lights installation is only temporary.
But now I wonder about the Field of Fights and about Tjukurpa.
I don't know.
I'm ambivalent.
Surely it can't make the human spirit soar more than watching the heavens on a clear dark night.
